The CV Thread

[stonehenge]

brb 12k to impersonate uffiser

Sent from my LG-D801

[Cez★]

imo, then god knows how much for fines and to demod

[shootermcgavin003]

not to mention felony jail time

[Dubyagee]

Felony shmelony.

Free coffee and baked goods at every convenience store you roll up on.

Payoff money to "protect" the local small bidnesses.

No more red lights.

Shot gun carried under the trunk lid.

Radio to talk to all your homies.

A freakin laptop for pronz and shit.

Its better than a real cop.

[pwtr02ss]

What he said

[stonehenge]

question:

Considering the engine on the CV is still nice and quiet, it's just bouncing since one cylinder isn't doing anything, would it be possible to repair that piston/head in-car instead of swapping the entire thing?



Edit: not by me, by a shop that knows wtf they're doing

[shootermcgavin003]

depends on what is gone. if just head you can take one head off and rebuild it. if cylinder or rings gotta pull engine hone and rering. if is rod or bearing thats gotta be replaced outside of car too.

if you got to pull it apart it would prob cost as much as used engine. however you know what you got then too.

[Dubyagee]

Take an airline and fit it with a compression tester adapter. Remove oil cap. Charge that cylinder with compressed air. Make sure intake and exhaust valves are closed.

Air coming out of the open oil fill hole = piston issue

Air noise coming from tailpipe = exhaust valve issue.

Air noise from intake = intake valve issue.

Also keep in mine if a mechanic stuffed a rag in the intake port of that cylinder and forgot it, low compression would result.

[shootermcgavin003]

this basically

[stonehenge]

is that a "leak down test"? One place I called asked if they'd done that. I'm pretty sure they didn't since they only charged me for basic diagnostics.

[Dubyagee]

Basically.

[shootermcgavin003]

Originally Posted by stonehenge

is that a "leak down test"? One place I called asked if they'd done that. I'm pretty sure they didn't since they only charged me for basic diagnostics.

you have been royal fucked by some places i think. it could be something simple. might as well let wife take it to garage.

[BillyJeanKing]

CV oil needle started jumping around again so I knew the bitch was empty on oil again. The last time it happened the oil stick came out bone dry.

I bought one quart of oil and put it in. The next morning I checked the driveway and there was a decent sized oil spot on the ground.

Went to mechanic and he lifted CV up to check for leaks. Didn't really see anything but he tightened the oil filter and degreased the underneath of the engine cuz it had been dripped all over.

Guy told me to try a simple fix before they removed the god damned engine and transmission to get a better look. Told me to buy Lucas engine oil leak stop:



I added a full bottle of that along with 3 qts of oil.

Checked the driveway after the first day and there was only a small spot on the ground. I expected to see that because the leak wasn't just going to immediately stop. Anyway, day by day I parked the car in the driveway over night and I would check it the next day only to find a smaller and smaller oil spot. It really only took two days for it to completely stop leaking. Dat lucas stuff works!!!

Lucas products are the best. I've used their transmission stop slip before and it worked great.

If any of you fools have older cars with over 100K miles be sure to use 20W-50 oil. Other shit tends to be too thin and drips out like water. I used cheap store brand oil just in case the Lucas stuff didn't work.



PSA: Check ALL your fluid levels regularly. I checked mine and saw I needed some new coolant. I should have known though because CV's hot/cold needle always jumps up for a quick second when it runs for more than an hour. Also bought some armor-all for belts and tires. Rubber needs lotion just like dat skin.

[theholycow]

Originally Posted by KOURKE

If any of you fools have older cars with over 100K miles be sure to use 20W-50 oil. Other shit tends to be too thin and drips out like water. I used cheap store brand oil just in case the Lucas stuff didn't work.

If you need to band-aid a leak and don't mind changing the way your engine is protected with more viscous oil that may not get circulated properly or protect all of the tightest spaces it needs to, 20W50 is a good idea. If you don't need to band-aid any specific problem, stick with the recommended oil (usually 5W30).

220,000 miles on my 5.3 with 5W30, still good, never have to add oil. Engine is going to far outlast the rest of the truck as it disintegrates to rust dust.

Something like 340,000 miles on my dad's Toyota 4.7 with 5W30.

[BillyJeanKing]

20W-50

you a cao, you shouldn't even be driving

[Dubyagee]

This should be called the CV killing thread.

[BillyJeanKing]

fuck you ole ghey ass ghey bwoi

[Cez★]

lawl armor all

[BillyJeanKing]

cez, gtfo

is for rubber

[Cez★]

the rubber on the inside?



theres better things u can put on tires

[Dubyagee]

I need to start a CV rescue. Tag them and find them good homes.

[BillyJeanKing]

Originally Posted by Cez★

the rubber on the inside? :lol

theres better things u can put on tires

the outside

[shootermcgavin003]

Bish ran dry?

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[BillyJeanKing]

wut ran dry?

[chevyrado14]

teh vageen? :dnw: