I hate flare nuts!

[theholycow]

Oops, already went way tighter than that...way, way tighter.

Well, worst case scenario I have to cut off a half inch of each tube, I think I can get away with that. If not then this time I'm flaring my own from bulk tube. It'll be easier to bend without that nut in the way, and obviously more cost-effective.

[Barrrf]

Originally Posted by Ewok

its because of dissimilar metals being joined together such as aluminum and steel it reacts causing corrosion and rust

Not all dissimilar metals are subject to galvanic corrosion. The worst case in an uncontrolled environment should be no more than .25V difference on the anodic index when comparing metals (or metals with coatings).

The way to combat this long term is to either use similar materials (which isnt always possible) or galvanize with zinc. there are other more expensive ways which wont work in a mobile application.

Ask me how I know..........

BTW - JB FTW.........I use that shit everywhere that a ghetto repair is necessary.

[lowerc]

Go till she strips then back it off a 1/4 turn

---------- Post added at 10:57 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:55 AM ----------

Originally Posted by Barrrf

Ask me how I know..........

How do you know?

[Barrrf]

Originally Posted by lowerc

How do you know?

Since you asked I used to design Portals and Manways for Tankers that needed to be ASME certified for pressure. This including understanding galvanic corrosion.

Before I got to the place that made these a batch got out that used stainless for fasteners on an uncoated steel manway. Lids kept blowing off under pressure when the fasteners corroded enough. Was a mess - you know why?

The tankers in question were septic haulers.

[Cez★]

Barrrf so smart

[lowerc]

the proverbial shit hit the mothafuckin fan

[stonehenge]

dat septic

[theholycow]

DNW exploding honeywagon covers.

Originally Posted by Barrrf

The way to combat this long term is to either use similar materials (which isnt always possible) or galvanize with zinc. there are other more expensive ways which wont work in a mobile application.

Any realistic ideas for my flare nuts? I don't have much control over materials. I suppose I could try some home galvanizing but the result would probably interfere with the seal, the threads, and/or being able to spin the nut on the tube...I'm imagining that rough zinc coating found on hot-dipped galvanized 12d nails.


Anyway, from now on I'm going to apply as much paint/undercoating/sealant as I can without causing problems, even if that means the job takes a few days instead of a few minutes as I wait for stuff to dry. I might plaster silicone on to the nut/tube interface so it's totally sealed in, but I'd never be able to remove that cleanly so I wouldn't be able to slide the nut back...at least I'd still be able to spin it in place, which is the important part.

[lowerc]

ever try out this shit?

[stonehenge]

works good for fap

[theholycow]

Yup, I've got exactly that jar of it.


---------- Post added at 01:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:02 PM ----------

...but thank you for reminding me. I need to remember to pull the nut back like a foreskin, slather anti-seize on the tube, then put the nut back in place.

[stonehenge]

[shootermcgavin003]

cao try fire

[theholycow]

Fire? On fuel lines?

[shootermcgavin003]

on trans lines you could

---------- Post added at 12:03 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:03 AM ----------

thought thats what that was

[theholycow]

In the beginning of the thread it was but this week I'm ranting about the fuel line.

[shootermcgavin003]

pb blaster is the only thing that can break them for me and alot if times there fucked i just replace it usually if it rounds off

[theholycow]

My problem isn't that it rounds off. I can usually break it free from the threads ok. The problem is usually that it's seized to the line so if I keep turning it it'll twist the line.

In the case of the transmission cooler I originally posted aboot, I found out that that one can't be turned, it's like welded or bonded or something at the factory. There's a clip and the line just pops out of the fitting without unthreading anything.

[shootermcgavin003]

yeah i know what thats like.

[stonehenge]

Pinche nhb


Try grenade

[theholycow]

Well, I did tell you guys the story of when the fuel line on was seized that way and I tried torching it, right? It had been so long since fuel was present in it that there weren't even vapors, but there were plenty of flammable liquids that I had applied to try to un-seize it and THOSE blew up in my face...in surprise I inhaled a fireball/smoke. Called poison control and tried to explain my concern by referencing the story of the guy who got permanently crippled by inhaling vapors from welding where brake cleaner was used (I bullshitted saying that it was my friend, I have no idea why I did that but I was panicking) but they insisted that if I was still standing I was fine.

[stonehenge]

Face still there? Meh you're fine.

- Poisons Ctrl

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

[shootermcgavin003]

[theholycow]

The primer under the flare nut never did dry. FIDIL, slapped a shitload of anti-seize in there to mix with it and put it all together. Maybe I'll spray a bunch of that undercoating all over it to seal it in, once I'm confident that it is holding pressure.

I had to undo the compression fitting a half turn because apparently I twisted it there while tightening, it wasn't aligned and I couldn't get it in place...once I loosened it I could turn it and attach both ends, then I tightened it and it twisted again...had to loosen it again and tighten it once more, very carefully, and then it was good. Primed the fuel system and it didn't leak, we'll see if it holds.

It doesn't all line up perfectly so I'll have to zip-tie a couple spots or something to make sure everything stays totally stable.

[Barrrf]

Silicone on the threads (the clear shit) works well too.