All Offtopic Forums - View Single Post

2005_Silverado · 06-30-2015, 12:19 AM

(Sept 2014)
So I took all last week off and went to san Francisco Sat-Tue and FINALLY did my 243 swap...took me 2.5 days since I had to wait for my PRs to come in....Did it W-Th and Sat.

Intake off

Valve covers off n whatnot

Many parts

Cylinders looked very good and had plenty of oem crosshatching left

Checker springs on 243s...ended up with 7.3 PRs and got 1.25 turns on the rocker bolt...will order 7.325 tho since I want a lil more preload

CC'd the heads

Started at 100cc..u neers do the math

And of course I had a lil mishap....I had to roll the truck in n out of the garage a bit to be able to work on it and then close the door at night...well it was super late and I was tired...I opened my door to put the truck in N and it rolled back more than I anticipated as soon as I shifted....door was open, fucked up the pillar...TINY chip on my door was all the damage...VERY lucky

I'll say this tho, the tools you use will either make ur life miserable or make this a breeze. I had ARP head bolts and ARP thread cleaners....def recommend both. Made install and clean up so easy. The Lingenfelter valve spring compressor also made swapping springs actually enjoyable.

Only thing other than the top end that had to come off was the Alternator and alternator bracket was just broken loose. I used the NNBS crossover tube and NNBS valve covers since the gaskets were better on those...bolted up fine. Was able to torque all the bolts real easy since I have a bunch of different size extensions and bolts are only 75ft lbs...tender lil Cody should be able to torque them down, no problemo.

And obligatory idle vids...notice the quiet engine...no sowing machine sound

Video page
Full screen

Video page
Full screen

(Oct 2014)
So the other day I got me a set of these

Fab'd valve covers w/o PCV provisions. Got them in the mail last night and test fitted today.

As most mods go, you gotta mod something else to make them work. These are "universal" covers so I was expecting a lil modding.

First off, I took the coils off the oem VC and just threw them on top of the corresponding cover and got this

Not all the holes line up to the studs on the VC...nothing a drill bit cant handle tho

I just elongated the holes on the bracket, some more than others but both brackets needed modding.

The driver side is a VERY tight squeeze because of the main harness but it fits fine...clears the alt bracket and plenty of room against the firewall. My aftermarket wires are long enough to accommodate the taller cover too.

Passenger side tho...this one is a lil different

The dip stick tube is a lil in the way, so I had to bend it towards the AC thingie....the bracket bolted to the head still touches the cover a lil but not a lot. The coil closest to the firewall is literally up against the firewall padding. Im able to get the plug on and off no problem but that fucker is tight. No way these would work on an LS car.

So now that leaves me with the PCV system...The driver side sucks in clean and and the passenger side spits out the dirty air and it gets sucked back into the intake. (Will be adding a catch can later)

Since these covers have no PCV provisions, I gotta get creative. RIght now the plan is to drill and tap the solid aluminum oil cap. I'll have a barbed fitting to hook up the hose from the intake tube

But then that cap is RIGHT above a rocker

So I gotta figure something out to avoid getting oil splashing on that fitting and having it spit oil out into the intake tube. A simple baffle would fix this.

So that leaves me the dirty side to figure out. My initial plan was to buy some fittings and a baffle and hook that up to the original vacuum line. But each fitting is $12, the baffle another $5 and it wouldn't look as nice and theres no promise that I wouldn't be sucking oil out the valve cover. So I decided to run the LS6 valley cover. It has an integrated PCV valve and would make for a simple and clean install. Can get one from BTR for $88 with gasket. SO for roughly $68 more, I can have an OEM look and know itll work.

Nice how to here http://ls1howto.com/index.php?article=18

All n all Ill be like $200 into this mod. Might not be worth any hp/mpg gains but I like it.

Next up will be Hydroboost and then oil catch can.

(Nov 14)
Did some weight reduction

(Dec 14)
FINALLY got my VCs and CC installed

Did a couple things tonight....wired up half of my engine bay lights and half way installed my engine oil cooler...rubber hose I had was too thin

Baby Derale cooler

Engine bay lights

Had to trim the NNBS cover because the new VCs are taller...no biggie

Was faily simple install for the lights...I tapped into the cig fuse in the panel, just slid an add-a-circuit in there with a 3A fuse iirc...smallest I could find. I'll be doing the cob DRLs sometime this month, but I like the way this looks, not too bright but lights it up good with a waterproof switch.

06-30-2015, 12:19 AM	#3
2005_Silverado Gnex Owner Join Date: Sep 2009 Posts: 36,800	(Sept 2014) So I took all last week off and went to san Francisco Sat-Tue and FINALLY did my 243 swap...took me 2.5 days since I had to wait for my PRs to come in....Did it W-Th and Sat. Intake off Valve covers off n whatnot Many parts Cylinders looked very good and had plenty of oem crosshatching left Checker springs on 243s...ended up with 7.3 PRs and got 1.25 turns on the rocker bolt...will order 7.325 tho since I want a lil more preload CC'd the heads Started at 100cc..u neers do the math And of course I had a lil mishap....I had to roll the truck in n out of the garage a bit to be able to work on it and then close the door at night...well it was super late and I was tired...I opened my door to put the truck in N and it rolled back more than I anticipated as soon as I shifted....door was open, fucked up the pillar...TINY chip on my door was all the damage...VERY lucky I'll say this tho, the tools you use will either make ur life miserable or make this a breeze. I had ARP head bolts and ARP thread cleaners....def recommend both. Made install and clean up so easy. The Lingenfelter valve spring compressor also made swapping springs actually enjoyable. Only thing other than the top end that had to come off was the Alternator and alternator bracket was just broken loose. I used the NNBS crossover tube and NNBS valve covers since the gaskets were better on those...bolted up fine. Was able to torque all the bolts real easy since I have a bunch of different size extensions and bolts are only 75ft lbs...tender lil Cody should be able to torque them down, no problemo. And obligatory idle vids...notice the quiet engine...no sowing machine sound Video page Full screen Video page Full screen (Oct 2014) So the other day I got me a set of these Fab'd valve covers w/o PCV provisions. Got them in the mail last night and test fitted today. As most mods go, you gotta mod something else to make them work. These are "universal" covers so I was expecting a lil modding. First off, I took the coils off the oem VC and just threw them on top of the corresponding cover and got this Not all the holes line up to the studs on the VC...nothing a drill bit cant handle tho I just elongated the holes on the bracket, some more than others but both brackets needed modding. The driver side is a VERY tight squeeze because of the main harness but it fits fine...clears the alt bracket and plenty of room against the firewall. My aftermarket wires are long enough to accommodate the taller cover too. Passenger side tho...this one is a lil different The dip stick tube is a lil in the way, so I had to bend it towards the AC thingie....the bracket bolted to the head still touches the cover a lil but not a lot. The coil closest to the firewall is literally up against the firewall padding. Im able to get the plug on and off no problem but that fucker is tight. No way these would work on an LS car. So now that leaves me with the PCV system...The driver side sucks in clean and and the passenger side spits out the dirty air and it gets sucked back into the intake. (Will be adding a catch can later) Since these covers have no PCV provisions, I gotta get creative. RIght now the plan is to drill and tap the solid aluminum oil cap. I'll have a barbed fitting to hook up the hose from the intake tube But then that cap is RIGHT above a rocker So I gotta figure something out to avoid getting oil splashing on that fitting and having it spit oil out into the intake tube. A simple baffle would fix this. So that leaves me the dirty side to figure out. My initial plan was to buy some fittings and a baffle and hook that up to the original vacuum line. But each fitting is $12, the baffle another $5 and it wouldn't look as nice and theres no promise that I wouldn't be sucking oil out the valve cover. So I decided to run the LS6 valley cover. It has an integrated PCV valve and would make for a simple and clean install. Can get one from BTR for $88 with gasket. SO for roughly $68 more, I can have an OEM look and know itll work. Nice how to here http://ls1howto.com/index.php?article=18 All n all Ill be like $200 into this mod. Might not be worth any hp/mpg gains but I like it. Next up will be Hydroboost and then oil catch can. (Nov 14) Did some weight reduction (Dec 14) FINALLY got my VCs and CC installed Did a couple things tonight....wired up half of my engine bay lights and half way installed my engine oil cooler...rubber hose I had was too thin Baby Derale cooler Engine bay lights Had to trim the NNBS cover because the new VCs are taller...no biggie Was faily simple install for the lights...I tapped into the cig fuse in the panel, just slid an add-a-circuit in there with a 3A fuse iirc...smallest I could find. I'll be doing the cob DRLs sometime this month, but I like the way this looks, not too bright but lights it up good with a waterproof switch. __________________ Allohv.com What you need, when you need it Last edited by 2005_Silverado; 06-30-2015 at 10:23 PM.